ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS: WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
If you’ve ever been on safari, I’m sure you will relate to the excitement and wonder of observing animals in their own habitat. But I think there is one step further in gaining the most authentic wildlife experience . . . and that is to leave the jeep behind and continue to explore on foot.
Photo Credit: (c) T J Allen Art
Nunu and me
Walking safaris are often offered as an additional bonus at lodges (sometimes complimentary, sometimes at a fee) and I’ve always been surprised when fellow guests don’t take up such a unique opportunity. Being free from the confines of the vehicle puts you on the same level as the wildlife. Yes, you may potentially feel a little more exposed, but being able to place your feet on the ground and walk amongst the bush is a truly humbling experience. . . . oh, and just in case you are wondering, no, you won’t be walking near the lions!
(See my Q&A blog for further explanation about game drives and walking safaris)
Enter The 'Rhino Whisperer'
One particular walking safari in the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Game Reserve in South Africa stands out in my memory. Led by the phenomenal Nunu Jobe, a.k.a. The Rhino Whisperer, I knew I was in extremely capable and experienced hands as soon as I laid eyes on him; and that was before I’d even heard about his reputation as a highly experienced trail ranger. Aside from his wide, big-teethed grin and long, thick dreadlocks, Nunu is renowned for his barefoot appearance. He says walking in the bush without shoes makes him feel more grounded and connected to the earth because it’s as though he is sharing each step with the animals.
Nunu drove us to an open plains area in which to leave the jeep. As our group of five gathered by the side of the vehicle, he explained that going on a bush trail was a spiritual journey. He asked us to hold hands in a circle and invited us to each explain our intentions and what we wanted to receive from the experience. I found this particularly poignant; it was like a lesson in mindfulness before mindfulness was even a ‘thing’.
Living up to his name and status of ‘being able to get closer to white rhino than anyone else’, Nunu came up trumps for our first sighting. In a wide, dusty area of ground, we were able to come within 15 metres of a mother rhino and her calf. It was phenomenal. They were both calm and relaxed, allowing us to observe their behaviour and fully take in the detail of their incredible prehistoric-designed bodies. I particularly loved watching the calf perform a very comical-looking yawn as he got to his feet from his morning nap.
It's All In The Details
As we continued in single file through the dry, grassy shrubland, I was acutely aware at how silent Nunu was, treading so gently in his unshod feet, in contrast to the rest of us who clomped and scuffed our way across the dry earth, despite trying to be quiet. Nunu’s senses were on high alert and he was reading all the signs and signals the bush was providing him with. He pointed out insects and plants that we weren’t able to appreciate during the game drives and even identified a fairly fresh leopard paw-print that was left in the condensed sand next to a stream. The up-close and personal perspective allowed us to gain more narrative about the eco-system as a whole and I felt a deep appreciation that the bush is so much more than just being about the big mammals who often dominate the show.
We may not have discovered the elusive owner of the paw-prints, but we were fortunate to spot a giant eagle owl and owlet peeking out from a big nest high up in a tree and an extremely well camouflaged frog in the undergrowth. As we began to explore an area next to a steep bank, we heard cracking noises through the bushes on the higher side indicating the presence of elephants. Needless to say, Nunu had us quietly backing out and re-routing pretty sharpish.
Photo Credit: (c) T J Allen Art
Watching Me, Watching You
The most prominent memory of the walk occurred as we rounded a corner of bushveld to discover a lone male giraffe, prominent in his stature, soaring up amongst the trees. At less than 10 metres between us and him, he swivelled his beautifully patch-work patterned body round to face us head on. Without the restrictions of the jeep, he could relate to us as separate individuals and there was an essence of intrigue in his behaviour. Viewing each person in turn, his gaze settled on me and I could physically sense him ‘checking me out’ as he took a deliberate look up and down of my body. Initially it was clear he was trying to work out if we were a threat or not, but his presence remained calm.
It is not often on safari that you are able to get such a deep sense of one-to-one interaction with an animal and seeing this giraffe watching me with the same intent that I was watching him is a profoundly connected moment I will always treasure.
Living The Dream
To walk amongst the African bush and appreciate the beautiful scenery and everything within it is an enormous privilege. It reveals the true wonder of nature and highlights the simplicities of life. Adventures like these make me feel more alive than ever and create memories that imprint on my heart. I can’t wait to get back out on a walking safari to see what lies in wait.
Photo Credit: (c) T J Allen Art